SUMMER TOMATOES

Whether you use heirloom, beefsteak, or cherry, this simple dish is all about the tomatoes. Be sure to use the ripest ones you can find for the best results.

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons malt vinegar
3/4 teaspoon packed light brown sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt (preferably flaky sea salt or fleur de sel)
1/2 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper
2 lb ripe tomatoes, cut crosswise into 1/2-inch-thick slices
1 scallion, thinly sliced diagonally

Whisk together oil, vinegar, brown sugar, salt, and pepper in a small bowl. Arrange one third of tomatoes in 1 layer on a large plate, then drizzle with some dressing and sprinkle with some scallion. Make 2 more layers of tomatoes, drizzling each with dressing and sprinkling with scallion.
Cooks' note:
Tomatoes can be sliced and dressed, without scallion, 6 hours ahead and chilled, covered with plastic wrap. Sprinkle scallion over tomatoes just before serving.

Makes 6 servings.


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July 2005