SPICE-ROASTED PORTERHOUSE STEAKS

All that these steaks need is about 30 minutes in a very hot oven: no browning, no sauce, no fuss. Improv: Try the same seasonings on two whole chickens, a pork roast, or three racks of lamb.

Two 2-inch-thick porterhouse steaks
Olive oil
1 1/2 tablespoons Coriander-Herb Spice Rub

Place two 2-inch-thick porterhouse steaks on a heavy rimmed baking sheet. Brush both sides with a full-flavored olive oil, then rub 1 1/2 tablespoons of the Coriander-Herb Spice Rub into each side of each steak.

Preheat the oven to 450°F. Roast steaks until a meat thermometer inserted into the center registers 125°F for rare, about 25 minutes. Transfer the steaks to a cutting board, cover loosely with foil, and let rest 10 minutes. To serve, cut the 2 whole pieces of meat (known as the loin and the fillet) from each steak, and slice. Give each guest a few slices of the loin and the fillet.

CORIANDER-HERB SPICE RUB
Homemade rubs are a quick way to transform roasted meat, poultry, and vegetables into something special. Use this one on both steak and potatoes. Improv: Fennel, cumin, or caraway seeds can replace the coriander; intense, earthy herbs like oregano and sage can stand in for the thyme and rosemary.

2 tablespoons coriander seeds
2 tablespoons whole peppercorns
3 tablespoons fresh thyme, chopped
3 tablespoons fresh rosemary, chopped
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon coarse kosher salt

Toast coriander seeds in a heavy small skillet over medium heat until aromatic, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a mortar or spice mill. Add peppercorns and crush until broken into coarse pieces. Mix crushed spices in a small bowl with thyme, rosemary, and salt. Store in the refrigerator in an airtight container for up to 3 days.